Hey guys, been a while, but I'm back with a new tutorial, this time for an Ork Battlewagon. This will be a multi-part tutorial, so be sure to check out the future installments as work continues.
I've long been a fan of Orks, and as any Ork worth his green hide knows, "Red 'uns go fasta!" So, we will be painting this Battlewagon as either a Kult of Speed vehicle, or simply your favorite clan's Battlewagon with a Red Paint Job. I've gone ahead and clipped, cleaned, and sub-assembled the model to allow me to start painting with as few basecoats as possible. So, without further ado, on to the tutorial proper.
*Notes on Assembly
I've decided to use a sub-assembly method of painting this miniature, and the reasons are two-fold. One - I want to minimize the number of times I basecoat pieces, and two - it allows for maximum interchangeability depending on what I want my model kitted out with.
Everything was sprayed with Krylon Flat Black to start with. I then sprayed the main cab, crew compartment, and body of the wagon, as well as any turrets, the ram, and other options, with Rustoleum Flat Paprika. The tracks, exhausts, and any metallic plates were then sprayed with Krylon Matte Aluminum. I let each coat of spray set for about two hours before applying another coat. Be sure to spray in a ventilated area, and place some newspaper down or use a spray box.
For Part One of this tutorial, we will focus mainly on the hull of the Battlewagon, so set aside your wheels, tracks, and other pieces. We just want all of our red pieces right now. Here we have the main hull of our Battlewagon sprayed Paprika. Any methods used on the hull will work just fine on any of the other red pieces, such as turrets and the ram.
Our first step to dirtying up our wagon is to apply a 1:1 mix of Bestial Brown and Chaos Black all over our model using the sponge technique. Grab a piece of blister foam or a Brillo pad and dip it into the paint mix, then wipe some of it off on a tissue. Then, dab the foam across the model, focusing on where grease, dirt, and the elements would wear away at the paint. Be sure to vary the application of the paint for the best effect.
Next, we will apply a basecoat of Chainmail over the metal parts underneath the hull. Iyanden Darksun is used to paint on dags, checks, and any other sort of Orky warpaint, as well as any of the glyphs.
Using Chainmail and a small brush, start applying metal scrapes across the dabbed on brown-gray painted areas. We want to achieve the effect that the paint has chipped away on the grimy areas. Stippling and streaking are excellent techniques for creating realistic scrape patterns. To stipple, take an old medium sized brush and dip it into your paint. Then, wipe away some of the paint on a tissue. Then, lightly poke the areas you want to stipple, as though you were dotting an "i" when writing. Poke away until you get a nice fading effect between red and silver. To streak the paint, I recommend grabbing a children's watercolor brush, or a brush with really stiff bristles, preferably with irregular bristle lengths. Load up your brush with paint so that the bristles are full up to the handle (this is never recommended when using a nice brush, as it will ruin your brush's point, but we don't really care about this brush. Plus, the worse the brush, the better the streaks!), wipe away some of the paint on a tissue, then quickly work it across the edges of the model with fast directional strokes. Most scuffs and scratches will be horizontal in nature, but feel free to experiment.
Next, basecoat any metal plates on the hull you want to be bare metal with Chaos Black. When dry, hit them with a coat of Chainmail. Next, with a small brush and Chainmail, pick out all the rivets. This is a tiresome process but really makes the vehicle pop. Here we see the wheels and tracks blu-tacked on to get an idea of what our Battlewagon is starting to look like.
Finally, we have an overview of where the model stands after these first few steps. I have not gotten around to painting the roof for the troop compartment or the turrets, but the same processes described above will work.
In Part Two, we will bust out our oil paints (or GW washes if you prefer) and go to town on weathering our metal areas.